Type | Finish | Ingredients | Uses | Features |
---|---|---|---|---|
soft distemper |
very matt |
ground chalk is dissolved in size and pigment added |
damp or dry plaster |
not washable |
oil-bound distemper |
very matt |
pigment is dissolved in size with linseed oil added |
damp or dry plaster |
not washable |
limewash |
very matt |
burnt limestone, slaked in water |
damp plaster; dry plaster should be moistened before application |
water permeable |
oil eggshell |
slight sheen |
white lead mixed with linseed oil, turpentine and thinners |
internal woodwork |
impermeable |
flat oil |
very flat |
oil paint |
internal woodwork |
impermeable |
emulsion - permeable |
matt |
modern emulsion |
plaster |
permeable |
emulsion |
vinyl matt or matt |
modern emulsion |
plaster |
impermeable |
acrylic |
very flat |
|
internal woodwork |
apply only to bare wood; remove any oil-based finishes |
Water paint was used extensively during the early part of the 20th century. It was outmoded by modern emulsion paint in the 1940s and 1950s, although it was itself a true emulsion, being a mixture of oil and water. The most popular brand was 'Walpamur', known to the old decorators as 'Wallop'.
You should not use impermeable paints for damp plaster or plaster on walls with no damp course or where it is not effective; you will seal the damp into the wall. Above all, avoid textured wall coatings; if you suffer from damp problems, these paints are prohibitively expensive to remove. Typically they have a bonding coat and a paint layer. Whilst chemicals can remove both layers, in some cases the bonding layer can only be removed by chipping it off, resurfacing the bricks and repointing.
Linseed oil-based paints are traditional and long-lasting but are difficult to apply. Make sure you mix the paint regularly. Be prepared for the paint to take a long time to dry.